Veranda on Highland: A Flashback to the Good 'Ole Days

In these financially uncertain times, sometimes it can be tough to justify spending a pretty penny on a fine dining experience. But when it comes to the Veranda on Highland, I’d be willing to take out a second mortgage to taste Chef Tom Robey’s exquisite wares.

The first thing you’ll notice about the Veranda, is the beautiful antebellum home in which it is housed. The two-story structure features lovely columns, a mostly glass front and a patio atop the entrance. It’s reminiscent of days gone by. I could imagine sitting on the second story patio after church, drinking a tall Mint Julep and wearing a wide-brimmed hat and a soft, pastel dress. I would be thinking about downtown Birmingham and its bustling streets of yesteryear. Then, the handsome gentleman at the next table would be so bold as to ask if he could join me. It sounds like one of those old-timey films, but one step inside this restaurant and you’ll feel like it could happen today.

What does happen at the Veranda nowadays is amazingly fresh cuisine. I’ve had the pleasure of visiting the restaurant for both brunch and dinner, and both exceeded my high expectations.

Let’s start with brunch. A large group of us made reservations for one of the upstairs rooms on a sunny Saturday. I enjoyed The Veranda Benedict. Perfectly poached eggs sat atop sugar-braised pit ham, fluffy black pepper buttermilk biscuits and a luscious hollandaise. ($14) Others at the table had Cochon and Eggs which consisted of pulled pork and a sunny side up egg over a corn and jalapeño Johnny Cake with red bean gravy and smoked paprika crème fraiche. ($13.50) It was good, but the standout at the table was the Jambalaya Shrimp Scramble. Spicy scrambled eggs with gulf shrimp, onions and peppers were served over jambalaya with Creole sauce and Mirliton Slaw. ($13.50) Likely the reason is Chef Robey worked for 18 years at the Commander’s Palace in from New Orleans. Anything inspired by the Big Easy on the menu is a safe and succulent bet.

If you order the Benedict, I highly recommend a French 75 with Tanqueray Ten or the house Bloody Mary. The tomato infused drink comes not only with colossal green olives, but also spicy pickled okra. I loved it so much I bought a jar so I could make them at home.

Now on to dinner at the Veranda. Chef Robey changes the menu based on what is locally available. That makes it fun to visit the Veranda during different seasons of the year. We’ve had an Heirloom Tomato and Watermelon Salad as well as Puppy Drum, a deliciously flaky and hard-to-get whitefish, during the summer months. Those items are not on the regular menu posted online. There you’ll find some of the restaurant’s signature dishes like Corn Fried Gulf Oysters on Chili Corn Cream with Torn Cilantro and Lime Zest. ($11.25) The oysters are briny and succulent with a light and crispy batter. You’ll want to use it to soak up every drop of the delicious cream. Another regular offering that we love is the Grilled Duroc Pork Tenderloin with Granny Smith Apple, New Potato and Bacon Hash, Frizzled Leeks and Sage Butter. ($21) This is a dish I could eat on a daily basis and never grow tired of it.

Next time I plan to try the Crabmeat and Brie Stuffed Potato Pirogues with Grilled Green Onion Sour Cream and Spun Vegetables ($12), the Iron Seared Jumbo Scallops with Mirliton and Avocado Slaw with a Mojito Gastrique ($24.50) or the Seared Veal Tournedos with Sugar Snap Peas, Herb Roasted Fingerling Potatoes, Pea Tendrils and Red Onions finished with a Green Peppercorn Veal Jus ($35).

I recently learned that Chef Robey has established a chef’s table. For a flat rate, you can enjoy course after course personally designed by the chef for you and at least three others. This is something now closed Vestavia Hills restaurant Local once offered to its biggest fans, but I have yet to hear about any of our other local fine dining restaurants offering this luxury except for the Veranda.

Veranda on Highland is a restaurant that doesn’t necessarily receive its due accolades. It’s a place where time seems to stand still. Each individual room only has a few tables, making you feel like you’ve been invited into someone’s luxury home for a priceless meal. It’s a place where you can enjoy yourself and forget about the financial stresses of today, if only for a short time. I hope you’ll pull up a chair, tip your wide-brimmed hat and enjoy them, too.

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